Mostly retired spend all my time working on or thinking about boats and outboard motors :)
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Follow our project from start to finish

 

Gallery

I needed somewhere to work - the garage was too small for the 26 footer I am building, so a "portable garage" seemed like the answer. Of course each time I got all the tools set-up out on the grass, the clouds would roll in and it would start raining.
Finally some progress :) A few frames temporarily stood up on the building form.

Next, the stem was installed and the keel layed up. Laminating in place, without fasteners which could hamper fairing, requires many, many clamps.
Springing the Chine. The designer noted some "bending and twisting" required to get the chine placed - that was putting the matter rather simply :)

After "plan A" and "B" resulted in nothing motor than a fractured piece of wood (but it is cool to see a 1" thick piece of Douglas Fir "explode") I soaked (normal water) the last 10-12 feet of the 26' long chines for 24 hours. That convinced them to bend where I wanted.
With the keel and chine holding things together, next the sheer was sprung.

Two layers were laminated to get the overall thickness of 1 1/4" and in the forward section a third (inner) layer was added to account for the heavy fairing in the bow.

I also laminated a "floor cleat" which will give a fastening point for the walk-around deck. It's easy to install and fair at this point which will save time trying to tediously fit supports once the hull is flipped and the sides are on.
With the longitudinals in place it was time to start the rough fairing.

Notches were cut in the chine at each frame, then the power plane made quick work of removing the excess wood in between. The stem and the sheer were rough faired with the aid of a fairing batten (3' stick).

After the rough fairing was done the (lines) were sighted by eye in multiple directions. Your eye is quickly drawn to minor dips or humps. Switching to a hand plane at this point lets you fix the minor imperfections.

A bit of final sanding and it's ready for the side panels.
I started by scarfing two 4 x 8 panels together to give me a 16' panel for the forward sides. Although a little tough to move around the panel was temporarily clamped in place on the side.

Lines were scribed on the inside of the panel to pattern it and it was trimmed with about an inch of extra (play) to allow some wiggle room. This panel was used as a pattern for the other side which is a mirror image.

During the second rough fitting, all the screws were fastened in pre-drilled holes and the panel was checked again for "fit" paying particular attention to the fit on the chine in the bow area where the bottom panels will meet in a butt.

Once happy with the rough fit, I started fairing the panels (at the stem and chine) to get them ready for the glue.
Before I got to the actual construction alot of time was spent reading, studying plans and making patterns. Here's a few shots of the "prep work".
I didn't get as much done as I had planned in 2010 which has now come and gone. June saw rain for 27 straight days and then July got so hot that you sweated if you even thought about moving. The rain returned in August for most of the month which left me with a few weeks in September/October before it got too cold for the epoxy to set up.

In that time I got the sides fastened/glued, the knee put in and started the mahogany strip work which will cover the sides of the boat.
I opted to lay the strips diagonally rather than horizontal for two reasons. First, it was easier to rip the mahogany into five foot lengths and second, without all the butt joints and the hassle of trying to keep all the strips level with the waterline (and the possible spiling that would entail) it will make an astronomically long job, just very long :)

The bottom of the hull will have to wait until spring...
 
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